WHATS MY LINE

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LINE EXPLAINED

Drop into Dicks, the Bass Pro Shops, Cabelas or your local Fishatorium and you might or will see hundreds of different fishing line brands, types, sizes, diameters, properties and strengths (pound tests) and proper selection is basically what we call a crapshoot for those who are not familiar with their properties…

And the knot you tie may not be good for the line and es[ecially with braids that come completely unglued if not tied with the proper knot.


RULES OF THE  R LOAD SIMPLIFIED 

Fishing line should be selected for it’s specific purpose,  according to its uses, or applications, for certain types of fishing. Each line type is unique and offers features and benefits specific to the needs at hand.  Its simple, just use the following steps.

  1. Identifying the species of fish you most commonly fish for. Might not be what you catch though
  2. Note:  Your particular fishing gear or style, spin, bait-cast, fly etc and specific equipment you own. 
  3. Note:  The habitat, lures and baits, and the level of skill of the angler, beginners need heavier lines. 
  4. These points determine the line you should be using. Nothing is written in stone, the first fish I ever caught was on a home made car antenna for the rod, a Band-Aid tape dispenser for a spool, HD sewing thread my mother was looking for and a diaper pin bent to shape as a hook… 
  5. Essentially, there are three major types of fishing line and each have their followers who swear by it.


 

MONOFILAMENT, BRAID, COPOLYMER

AND FLUOROCARBON


MONOFILAMENT LINE PROS

  1. The oldest common line for the past fifty years.
  2. Least expensive and great value for the dollar
  3. Casts well
  4. Takes knots well and cuts easily with clippers, easy to make rigs with hooks, sinkers, etc.
  5. Limp thus it takes chaffs better than the fluorocarbons.
  6. Small lures and also for panfishing. "It's easier casting far with light lures using monofilament," 


MONOFILAMENT LINE CONS

  1. Mono stretches under pressure, but it can be very “ forgiving” when you’re fighting a large fish. But it also makes it harder to detect light strikes.
  2. Requires a solid hook set with mono to drive hooks deep. 
  3. Mono is softer than fluorocarbon, and some anglers believe it’s more forgiving of abrasions than fluorocarbon line However, some fisherman say fluorocarbon is better at abrasion resistance because it’s "hard".
  4. Monofilament twists, which causes a multitude of casting and retrieving problems. Monofilament line twist can be an especially troublesome problem when trolling lures, because of their inherent wiggle and wobble. 
  5. Swivels in lures and baits can diminish line twist, but swivels are visible to spooky fish in clear water.
  6. “Mono is best option for top-water lures for bass, especially poppers. Mono doesn’t sink like fluorocarbon or offer a darker silhouette like braid, so its ideal for any surface lure fishing."


COPOLYMER LINE PROS and CONS (FEW)

  1. Copolymer lines are those made from more than one polymer as their name suggests. 
  2. These polymer combinations are chosen in such a combination that makes them stronger than an individual polymer. 
  3. This factor makes copolymers great for heavy fishing applications.
  4. A copolymer line has far more advantages than any other type of line in various scenarios. First, copolymer lines are generally much stronger than other fishing lines. The combination of two nylon polymers reinforces strength into the material and at the same time, increases its impact and abrasion resistance. Owing to this, copolymers do not snap easily.
  5. The stretch of copolymers is quite high for the amount of strength it has. These properties allow copolymers to be less than half the diameter of their monofilament counterparts and still have the same strength. This thinness allows you to carry more of the copolymer line on the same spool.
  6. A copolymer fishing line is one that uses a combination of polymers as the base material. Usually, two different types of nylon are combined to maximize strength and resistance. Often copolymers are made out of a single plastic fiber, though this fiber contains multiple polymers, they can technically be classified as monofilaments.
  7. Copolymer lines are made by stretching the material into one straight line. Using multiple polymers allows manufacturers to fine tune the properties and features of the line; they can have greater control over stretch, strength, resistance, visibility, and all the other important factors as they are able to combine different materials in different ratios.
  8. Monofilament and copolymers have comparable yet contrasting characteristics. Copolymer lines stretch less than monofilament and allow sturdy hook sets while monofilaments stretch more and allow some play for the fish.
  9. Copolymers are much stronger than monofilament at the same diameter. This means you need a much thinner copolymer line to match double the thickness of a monofilament. Thus, copolymer clearly wins in the strength aspect.
  10. As a thin copolymer is strong, more of it can fit onto any spool. This allows you to cast longer distances with copolymer lines. Finally, unlike monofilament, copolymer lines do not retain spool memory. This reduces the risks of unspooling or tangling during casting.
  11. Copolymer fishing lines are versatile enough for different types of applications. The high strength, as well as decent stretch, makes a unique combination of properties of copolymer fishing lines. This mix is a great choice for medium and heavyweight fish that are always ready to fight. However, their application is not limited to these fish. Copolymers can be thought of as an all-rounder which performs well in most fishing scenarios.
  12. Thanks to its moderate sinking profile, copolymers are also used for suspension rigging and swim baiting. When you are aiming for a certain depth, copolymers are the way to go. Their strength and stretch along with high durability and low visibility make copolymers an excellent choice to go deep into the water. As a result, deep water crank baiting is perfectly within the scope of copolymer lines
  13. The same traits give copolymers full marks for its sinking profile and makes them a good choice for fishing in harsh conditions where rocks, weeds, and any other obstacles might hamper you. It is safe to say copolymer lines have qualities that make them suitable for a wide variety of fishing applications.


BRAIDED LINE PROS

  1. Braided line in recent years offers high abrasion resistance, very fine diameter per test, and superb casting characteristics.
  2. Virtually no stretch, thus it’s extremely sensitive—making it a top choice for deep water fishing.
  3. Braid can be a godsend in heavy tests of 20, 40, and 80 pounds or more. 
  4. Braid sharpens and intensifies the signals transmitted through the line from lures. 
  5. Braided line, when compared to mono and fluorocarbon, is that it doesn't twist. Line twist can be deadly with mono, especially in lighter tests, and particularly when inexperienced anglers are in control.

BRAIDED LINE CONS

  1. It is more expensive than monofilament.
  2. Difficult to tie knots in, as braid tends to slip. 
  3. Improved Clinch Knot and Blood Knot, will not hold in braided line.
  4. Braid is that it must be cut with scissors when trimmed following knots. Nail clippers will not cut braid.
  5. But in very light tests, under about 10 pounds, it is so fine in diameter that it’s difficult for some folks to handle and cast. 
  6. Use a leader of monofilament or fluorocarbon between braid and a hook to make the terminal end more invisible.
  7. This also helps prevent tangles in snaps, swivels, and hook split rings.

NOTE: It will also cut you like a bread knife if you are not careful or gloved on long runs.

The biggest advantage of modern braids is their small diameter compared to monofilament lines. For example, 20-pound braid has the diameter of only 6-pound-test monofilament. This offers the best of both worlds with amazing strength, plus the smooth handling, higher line capacity, and longer casts of a much lighter line.

If you are a new braid user, however, you have a few new tricks to learn. First of all, super-slick braided lines will slip on the shaft of the spool. To prevent this, try putting a small backing layer of monofilament on the reel first, then tying and spooling on the braid. Some manufacturers even include foam tape with their lines to serve as spool backing. Loosely wound braid on a spool can dig down into itself and bind, so when you spool up apply more line tension than you may be used to.

  • You also can’t use braid on cheap or older rods with chrome-plated wire guides. 
  • Most modern ceramic or metal guides will handle braid without grooving. But, if you’re thinking of using braid on an old rod or one pulled from the bargain barrel, be aware of this potential problem. Check the tip-top guide in particular. If your braided line is breaking unexpectedly, this might be another sign that it is grooving your guides — which are abrading and cutting the line in return. 
  • If this happens, it’s probably time for a new rod. The same applies to older spinning reels, too. Modern reels with roller guides will handle braid, but your old spinner with a fixed, chrome-plated line roller might start grooving. Watch for this and if you see grooving, its time for a new reel.
  • Another fact to keep in mind is that even though that braided line might be the diameter of 6 pound test, it’s actually 20-pound test. So it might cast just fine on a light rod and reel designed for 6-pound monofilament, but neither of those components may be able to handle 20 pounds of strain if you have the drag cranked all the way down and hook a large fish. 
  • You can break a rod or warp a reel spool if you don’t select and use a rod and reel rated for braided line. This is more of a factor with older gear, but even with a modern outfit be sure to check the maximum recommended line test.
  • One of the few potential disadvantages of braid is how limp it is. While this is a plus when casting, the line can wrap your rod tip or tangle much more easily than mono. 
  • If you do get a tangle, braid also welds itself into a permanent knot much more readily than mono. 
  • Braided lines cost more than monofilament, and you don’t want to discard 30 feet of good line because you can’t untie a knot that develops that far back on the spool. 
  • Be careful not to accidentally pull a tangle tight when you get one. While somewhat stiffer braids are available, many anglers prefer the silky-smooth way that limp braid handles.
  • Despite this limpness, an advantage of braid in most situations is the fact that it has almost no stretch. Monofilament is quite stretchy, evident to any angler who’s ever had to break a mono line off a solid object such as a submerged stump. Braid, on the other hand, is tight as a wire — excellent for strike detection, and for solid hook-setting through thick Texas-rigged plastics into tough fish mouths. Most anglers will probably notice a nice improvement in their hookup ratio when they try braid.



FLUOROCARBON

  1. Fluorocarbon fishing line is a new product that has been improved dramatically over the years. 
  2. Its price has also come down to simply reasonable from ridiculous.
  3. Similar in design to monofilament as a single strand extrusion. 
  4. It is virtually invisible in even ultra-clear water because light passes through it. 
  5. It has less stretch than mono—though it is more elastic than braided line. It’s tough and resistant to abrasion. 
  6. Newer versions of fluorocarbon are not as stiff as when it first entered the fishing market, which makes it more suitable to spooling on reels. Unlike mono, fluorocarbon doesn’t absorb water.

FLUOROCARBON CONS

  1. It can be difficult to tie some knots with because it’s stiffer than mono or braid. 
  2. Also, it sinks faster than mono, so for surface lures, it’s not the best choice. 
  3. "It's limp and castable on bait-casters, while still maintaining lots of strength and abrasion resistance.