NIKON CABLE SHORTENING


AFFORDABLE NIKON
CABLE SHORTENING

I shorten and lately, most of the times  “ try to repair Nikon Cables.¨    I say try as the production from China year by year quality wise got worse rather than better.  The Wedding shooters still using them on brackets have tapered off to nothing volume,  just as good paying weddings dropped off.

I have been shortening and repairing them for more than forty years. I have a work station just for cable and other small repairs and I will continue to repair them if I can.  The built in electronic triggers, remotes and complex steps with multiple flash have replaced the shortened cables and repairs I do.   I usually trust hard wire more than electronic wire. Old school.

And you are probably wondering why Nikon ever made those cables for the SC-17, SC-28, SC-29 so damn long?  Because Nikon thought these cables could be used for off camera “statue of liberty” shooting, not as common a technique any more with brackets or wireless and integrated flash systems.  

Roping it around the handle will cause the Chinese cable to split open, many do this.  The entire cable loops and all be gone and just the wires left eventually and this is dangerous.

A  jump from the capacitor to any of the squelch wires can blow the flash and the camera’s mother board.  Send me all the remains,  and I will call you and hopefully I can save the rest, fix the bad end and remake the cable. 

If the cable is bad on both ends like shown in the picture just below, we have several choices.  Repair cables and parts are now non-existant.   Almost robbing Peter to pay Paul.   

In the past, my backup supply, I got from a return’s room at a noted retail dealer.  They pitch them now.  

Here is a working example sent to me with the rotten Chinese compound which makes the SC-29 totally useless. The strain relief for repairs they use is unavailable as it is proprietary from a mold, made of a bad composition fake rubber made from guava jelly,  fish DNA and bubble gum. 

I have looked for ten years for one that would be compatible.  They would make them for me if I ordered 5000.  No way Jose...  There is no market anymore.

I had to create the repairs using several techniques including using shrink tubes to manufacture a strain relief which is the only repair as shown on the worst one of the week. 

The wire is virtually not solderable unless you are astute at 22-28 gauge wire butt cold setup soldering.  I had to develop a new hot-solder technique for these weaker wire units which is working out well, but complex.  One miss with the solder tip and you are finished.  

The other game-killer is when you loose one of the wires from the pins and try to reconnect.  Very tricky because of the type of solder they used in China.  Many US companies do not use Chinese solder, especially those in the defense industry. Hotter than usual and a smaller tip and fast.

I also had to develop a new technique to prevent the cable from putting a strain on the solder joints and that is metal and working perfectly.  

The SC-17 was made in Japan and the newer  27, Disc, 28 and 29 series were stamped Nikon JAPAN… 

“ Parts and labor from CHINA”   the packaging is Japan.  The new ones,  SC-28, SC-29 are “Made in China”.   

Understand, this is a repair / service process, not beautification.  I will do my best to make it look good and save the strain relief.  

We check the internals, especially the screws that hold the platform loosen on the top near the flash foot.  

On the SC-17 the strain relief is a separate added component and held in place (sometimes) by a soluble glue and is (sometimes) workable intact.  

No way to tell but with luck on some of the older origional SC- 28 and 29 models, sometimes the relief is a molded one part extra component and comes off.   Not all the time, it is hit or miss, some come apart, some don’t.  My goal is making it shorter and usable.  The cracks in the relief basically tell me when to stop unless they have degaussed.   

Another trick I learned is to take the ends off,  if usable and utilize a specific electrical  underground (round) cable not the flat stuff and rebuild them into twenty-five foot extensions for off camera shooting that makes sense.  Better than nothing.

Most cases I can repair small connections as needed and usually I do not charge extra within reason. I’m fairly lenient with the work I do but always reserve the right if it’s really complex or if you have worse happen.

Thats someone who did not know what they were doing and really fumducked it up, and I gotta clean the mess.

SHIPPING:

Send me the cable via USPS in the seven dollar sixty-five cent small priority mailbox wrapped in a ZIPLOC plastic sandwich and packing bag in case there is a monsoon.   Enclose an additional check for 7.65. for return mail.

Enclose name, address, email, and phone numbers, home and cell.  Shortened  to 15-24 coils, if in good or salvageable shape.  $47.15  to $57.00  on the average.