🚑    I get a couple calls a week from those wanting to build their own machines.  I am not encouraging anyone to make this a (DIY)  Do-It -Yourself project.   Just too many things can, and usually will go wrong resulting in loss of currency and possibly severely cut or burnt fingers. 

This is all about liability, I will not for liability reasoning offer any suggestions, clues, or repairs.  I am not a mean person, and not because I am unwilling to share, because this is a dangerous puppy if you don’t know what you are doing.  High voltage, 240 AC, very sharp metal, confusing construction, fifty springs and joints, gauge tools you don’t have and so forth.  Manuals for the different models and schematics, and NO PARTS.

Someone in Oshkosh won’t effect my bottom line in competition. But the liability issue and I don’t know your skills. I deal in photography and photographers and they are all great skilled guys, except when I see their work.   Anything else about photography, the photo industry equipment or gear, I’ll give you all the time you need in helping basically for free,  but not with these puppies, I think of them as a Fer-de-Lance.  

I undertook this project because I am experienced, I having worked on them all my natural life, and a knowledge base of the product we have serviced for decades and comfortable working with both high voltage analog and digital componentry in the Carousels and photographic bigly machines in film processing. I have fixed and repaired all these machines for decades.

If you are not familiar with the Carousels internals, few are, few have looked at them in years, and even fewer know how to fix them,  a strong word of caution here is to let us do it.  By the way, of the fifty machines we built this year, not one had a bulb in it that wasn’t cracked from overheat, tobacco dust and careless handling. 

These are  extremely complex mechanical, servo-motor driven high voltage combinations in the projector world with thirty to forty variants with, as we have found, similarities outweighed by changes.  Thus we treat each machine independently to stabilize it for our project on an individual basis.  Another problem is it’s all exposed inside and shorts of a high nature do occur and this unit is a capacitor driven 240-V rig.  

You have been warned.  The transformation is long and involves everything from metal cutting, soldering or welding, and a working knowledge of electrical components from a different era and board work in addition to computer based ARDUINO computer knowledge.  Conversion of power supplies and the resulting LED array.

These machines circa 1979 to 2004 used very open and unprotected circuitry in its design, for cooling and never expecting anyone to delve into one other than a certified technician.    

Though KODAK spelled out the need for servicing their machines few ever paid attention to their corporate recommendations.  Our vetting process eliminates approximately 70% of the machines as not suitable for use, most we get never had a service mark on them so we have to service what they missed.  There are over 50 places to simply lubricate, mainly buried.

There are very few parts available, most come from  salvaged dead machines, most with the same problems of the one you are trying to fix.  Adding more problems to the mix because shipping is not cheap on these things.  Since most of the glitches were common to a year or model, one machine had the same problems yours had.   

Because we gut the machines we basically add our new parts and rebuild.  There are many uncovered, very sharp blood letting stamped metal parts that will cut you.  I own stock in 

•  Also, possible really bad burns from the motor when it gets hot or possibly you might get shocked.  These are pure AC machines at 240 volts with capacitors.  Tingles are a sign something is wrong.   

•  Adjustments to the slide transfer module were based on a myriad of springs, pinned actions, and metal bent to the right angle as an adjustment.   Bend one the wrong way even by degrees and it stops.  Over twenty springs of every possible size makes it happen, lose one spring and it stops.  

•  Don’t get me wrong, this was incredible 50-60-70’s-80’s-90’s technology and I have to modify a fair amount of the machine (50%) to newer technology and today, for parts it’s basically Peter to Paul.  On some models... Peter is well… petered out.  And few if any spare peters running around with 240 volts in them.  

•  There are no Kodak parts other than salvage on the web and no guarantees how long they will last.  The other problem is the part you need was the part everybody else killed so the web parts are just survivors that rarely failed.