It is still my favorite strobe of all time.  It made me money, it was reliable and I made my own power packs.  Metz proprietary parts are too expensive.  The  problem was money and what it costs to power them.  SOLVED

The good side today is the strobes are available in numbers, dirt cheap and simple to operate in M or A mode which most pros use and understand and the new power conversions I am working on, are simple and inexpensive.  Established quality means well made upgrades and the results in are nicely done. 

I’m using and redoing all of their modules to make modules that have superior power and are inexpensive and look like they belong, not an add-on hack job glued or velcro’ed to the outside.

The honesty of the web and eBay has always been dubious.   Look out for 45’s on Roberts Camera on eBay, some of their 45’s should have been trashed.  One customer I worked with received three till they had one that worked. For some reason they part them out and then ship you half a strobe.  Cheap price but missing parts like brackets, modules, cables, etc.

The circular sliders if left in a bad environment like at the seashore, salt air, are prone to corrosion and wear, and the hot circuits shorted in many simply due to age.  If unsure, email the ad and I will assist you.  If you own one be sure to exercise, move the sliders and controls as often as possible as this remove some of the corrosion.

Beware of ads using factory pictures. Beware of ads claiming could not be tested. Tell the seller you’ll give him 20.00 dollars and if it’s in good shape you’ll pay the difference.

SYNCH VOLTAGE is a red flag. You have to manually check the voltage on your unit. You are forewarned that, all Metz, Canon, Nikon products and others are voltage and amperage sensitive and nothing any of them builds or sells is inexpensive either as a replacement or repair.  But in our sense it means whether you use it on a stand off-camera with a transceiver or placed in a hotshoe or port.

Think before you do something that might go wrong as the smell is sometimes the first clue as to something might be wrong. I can advise you on this, my sniff test tells me someone was in the unit before me and mistakes linger on.  

Thus older CT-1 are units stronger than bulls with higher synch if their serial numbers are under 534,000.  BUT they have a high voltage synch rate.  Those we use on stands and dual mounts as shown with a remote or light sensitive trigger as with MARY ANN.  Who is Mary Ann, read on.

** If the number is higher than 534,000, no problem the 500,000 indicates low-synch voltage and I will gladly shoot with Nikons, Canons, and Sony’s off the hotshoe or synch made today.

The Metz Ni-Cad modules were great for film, today are useless. They had a  50 shot capacity, were OK in the days of film weddings when you carried two packs, barely made it and only shot 120 pictures. 

RULE ONE: However do not pitch them.  They might,  if not killed by age and neglect be rebuildable for a real power pack module and cable and save you big bucks.   

RULE TWO: Also there is an old Quantum Cable I modify and also one by PC- Cords sometimes on eBay. See picture.

RULE THREE:  I can make a module from any of the Sonia aftermarket modules.   

RULE FOUR:  Some of these modules are old, very old and made of components that click together and then a couple screws lock things together.  But when dismantling them, they snap apart sometimes into more pieces than you thought you wanted to have. The term brittle and weak comes to mind.

RULE FIVE:  In some cases the contacts will have to be resized and re-soldered to work. If not, that popping sound might be a meltdown and the smell will be the first indication as the plastic melts and you just ruined it,  I use heat sinks and certain techniques like MEK integration glueing and plastic welding.  There are screws, some hidden, wiring, and drilling with step bits, and a diode to contend with. I do not do this for nothing, I charge for this.  Call me,  I have these units available in stock.