THE CLIPS (MODULES)


CLIPS ARE NOT
CREATED EQUAL

There are three versions of the Metz clip. (Battery Holders) Look inside the handle. You see three pins but your module only has two contacts.  NOTE:  I work on these things and as usual misinformation is prevalent on the web.  Thus, eliminating all BS and those who say it doesn’t matter, it does.   I once said stupid never needs an intro to the web.  

For me the modules serve one purpose, remember this is an improvement process, not how to rebuild the mess the old way.  Modules are best used...disassembled and rebuilt into a power cord, otherwise useless.  

The modules all come from overseas, the true Metz Alkali from Germany about $28.00 for one, the TYPE three very underpowered and/dead, are expensive.  The knockoffs made by SONIA BRAND from Karnataka, India are about three for 25.00 dollars.  Every five of the cheapie’s I use, I throw one away, poor fit, won’t lock in the handle, thin plastic.  Just like China.


TYPE 1 - MODEL 54557 METZ RECHARGEABLE  
NICAD 
The first module is the older-welded cells factory issued NiCad pack.  If it is welded, not soldered.  Soldered batteries are homemade refills. Also look for corrosion, not a good choice, thus good for a pack when I gut it, I don’t need the insides.


TYPE 2 - MODEL 5312   45-39  METZ and 
SONIA BRAND

The second, type is simply an unfilled empty holder you fill, with ALKALI only, not rechargeable batteries, it is designed to work with the ground and PIN A which is in a different location from the Ni-Cad/NiMH  pack and it is the 9.X volt version. 


TYPE 3 - MODEL 54XXX NiMH - 
DO NOT PURCHASE IT
The third version is the newer Ni-MH offered by B&H and more current, marked new, when? How long has it been current on their shelves. Which is why I have an expensive load tester on my bench. Most likely it is what they call  “Old new inventory”  Pass if you are smart. Waste of money. NiMH has a one to two tear life expectancy when not used.

I can convert all of these holders to a battery pack module by rebuilding the unit and we’ll save you about sixty dollars.



REALLY CHEAP BACKUP, BUT - Some tried using Sanyo Eneloops in the former Metz NiMH 45-39 battery holder, and it might make a good backup when a pack is not needed.  Recycle times are relatively better than alkalines. But you do have to convert the pack to the 7.4 side if you use the SONIA’s.  The genuine Metz that came with NiMH is a 7.4. 

Eneloops cells won’t discharge as fast by themselves like normal rechargeable’s do. Unfortunately, the cells are expensive and you must use the same cells from one batch.  If you mismatch cells especially rechargeable’s you might have a first hand encounter with failure or other anomalies.

To increase the life of your cells, you might want to use an "intelligent" charger that monitors each cell individually. One good entry-level model is the La Crosse BC-700, which can be had for less than 30 dollars US on Amazon



POWER AND

REAL CAPACITY
The Metz Ni-Cad modules were great for film, today they are useless. They had a  50 shot capacity, were OK in the days of film weddings when you carried two packs, barely made it and only shot 120 pictures. 

RULE ONE: However do not pitch them.  They might,  if not killed by age and neglect be rebuildable for a real power pack module and cable and save you big bucks.   

RULE TWO: Also there is an old Quantum Cable I modify and also one by PC- Cords sometimes on eBay. See picture.

RULE THREE:  I can make a module from any of the Sonia aftermarket modules.   

RULE FOUR:  Some of these modules are old, very old and made of components that click together and then a couple screws lock things together.  But when dismantling them, they snap apart sometimes into more pieces than you thought you wanted to have. The term brittle and weak comes to mind. They are more delicate than your cellphone, and if you would not take that apart, this is beyond your skill level.

RULE FIVE:  In some cases the contacts will have to be resized and re-soldered to work. If not, that popping sound might be a meltdown and the smell will be the first indication as the plastic melts and you just ruined it,  I use heat sinks and certain techniques like MEK integration glueing and plastic welding.  There are screws, some hidden, wiring, and drilling with step bits, and a diode to contend with. I do not do this for nothing, I charge for this.  Call me,  I might have these units available in stock.