•  You have to manually check the voltage on your unit. You are forewarned that, all Metz, Canon, Nikon products and others are voltage and amperage sensitive and nothing any of them builds or sells is inexpensive either as a replacement or repair.  

•  But in our sense it means whether you use it 1) on a stand off-camera with a transceiver or 2) placed in a hotshoe or port.

•  Think before you do something that might go wrong as the smell is sometimes the first clue as to something might be wrong. I can advise you on this, my sniff test tells me someone was in the unit before me and mistakes linger on.  

•  NUMBERS ARE CRITICAL - Thus older CT-1 are units stronger than bulls with higher synch if their serial numbers are under 534,000.  BUT they have a high voltage synch rate.  Those units below 534,000 we have no hesitation using them on lightstands especially the dual mounts with a transceiver or on my beach rigs using my Mary Ann.  
Simply use a WEIN Safe -Synch voltage regulator available at B&H or Transceivers that are rated at 200V.

The Wein Safe-Sync Hot Shoe to Hot Shoe regulates and reduces the flash sync voltage of the flash from up to 400V to less than 6V. This is especially important for current automated SLRs or digital cameras when used with older flashes or lighting systems.

This model mounts directly to a camera’s hot shoe, great because it allows the unique synch cord we use with the Metz to plug right in the front. and provides a hot shoe on top and a PC female flash connection on the side.  Y

You can have a flash connected to the hot shoe and a flash being triggered by the PC female connection-and unlike so many other offerings of this type, both will fire simultaneously from the same signal. The exception to this rule pertains when using 1 or 2 flashes that are already under 5V sync voltage. In this case, the flash or flashes will not fire.

** If the number is higher than 534,000, no problem the 500,000 indicates low-synch voltage and I will gladly shoot with Nikons, Canons, and Sony’s off the hotshoe or synch made today.  Now you have two choices with the Vello at B&H

Use an older-style shoe-mounted flash unit on a modern digital camera body with this HSA-PVU Hot Shoe Adapter with Safe Voltage Conversion from Vello. It works with voltages up to 60V and reduces it to less than 6V to protect the delicate circuits of your camera system. 

This adapter also offers a PC terminal for connecting the camera to another flash or studio light. Additionally, it runs on a CR2032 battery and has a battery check button with an LED indicator light that lights up when the adapter is working.  B&H sells Vello for 39.95. Smaller profile, newer more modern design than the Wein and is cheaper.

There are three versions of the Metz clip. (Battery Holders) Look inside the handle. You see three pins but your module only has two contacts.  NOTE: Thus, eliminating all BS and those who say it doesn’t matter, it does.   I once said stupid never needs an intro to the web.   I work on these things and as usual misinformation is prevalent on the web.  

For me the modules serve one purpose, remember this is an improvement process, not how to rebuild the mess the old way.  Modules are best used...disassembled and rebuilt into a power cord, pack models otherwise useless.  

The modules all come from overseas, the true Metz Alkali from Germany about $28.00 for one, the TYPE three very underpowered and/dead, are expensive.  The knockoffs made by SONIA BRAND from Karnataka, India are about three for 25.00 dollars.  Every five of the cheapie’s I use, I throw one away, poor fit, won’t lock in the handle, thin plastic.  Just like China.

The first module is the older-welded cells factory issued NiCad pack.  If it is welded, not soldered.  Soldered batteries are homemade refills. Also look for corrosion, not a good choice, thus good for a pack when I gut it, I don’t need the insides.

TYPE 2 - MODEL 5312   45-39  METZ and 

The second, type is simply an unfilled empty holder you fill, with ALKALI only, not rechargeable batteries, it is designed to work with the ground and PIN A which is in a different location from the Ni-Cad/NiMH  pack and it is the 9.X volt version. 

The third version is the newer Ni-MH offered by B&H and more current, marked new, when? How long has it been current on their shelves. Which is why I have an expensive load tester on my bench. Most likely it is what they call  “Old new inventory”  Pass if you are smart. Waste of money. NiMH has a one to two tear life expectancy when not used.

I can convert all of these holders to a battery pack cable module by rebuilding the unit and we’ll save you about sixty dollars.

REALLY CHEAP BACKUP, BUT - Some tried using Sanyo Eneloops in the former Metz NiMH 45-39 battery holder, and it might make a good backup when a pack is not needed.  Recycle times are relatively better than alkalines. But you do have to convert the pack to the 7.4 side if you use the SONIA’s.  The genuine Metz that came with NiMH is a 7.4. 

Eneloops cells won’t discharge as fast by themselves like normal rechargeable’s do. Unfortunately, the cells are expensive and you must use the same cells from one batch.  If you mismatch cells especially rechargeable’s you might have a first hand encounter with failure or other anomalies.

To increase the life of your cells, you might want to use an "intelligent" charger that monitors each cell individually. One good entry-level model is the La Crosse BC-700, which can be had for less than 30 dollars US on Amazon

If one any one of those cells ( Remember this is a China product) decreases they all drop to the lowest capacity setting, it a law of electricity and resistance.  If  cell dies completely the pack stops working.  Thats why I don’t use them.


  1. The Metz Ni-Cad modules were great for film, today they are useless. They had a  50 shot capacity, were OK in the days of film weddings when you carried two packs, barely made it and only shot 120 pictures. Sub 1000 Mah
  2. However do not pitch them.  They might,  if not killed by age and neglect be rebuildable for a real power pack module and cable and save you big bucks.   
  3. Also there is an old Quantum Cable I modify and also one by PC- Cords sometimes found on eBay. See picture.
  4. I can make a module from any of the Sonia aftermarket modules.  
  5. Some of these modules are old, very old and made of components that click together and then a couple screws lock things together.  But when dismantling them, they snap apart sometimes into more pieces than you thought you wanted to have. The term brittle and weak comes to mind. 
  6. In some cases the contacts will have to be resized and re-soldered to work. If not, that popping sound might be a meltdown and the smell will be the first indication as the plastic melts and you just ruined it,  I use heat sinks and certain techniques like MEK integration glueing and plastic welding.